Wrapping your kitchen cabinets with vinyl is the cheapest way to change your kitchen without building work. In a weekend you can go from dated units to a kitchen in walnut, matte white or grey. There's no painting and no new doors to buy, and if you rent or get tired of it, the vinyl comes off. Here's how to do it properly, from measuring to the edges.
Which surfaces it works on
Vinyl sticks well to smooth, sealed surfaces: melamine, laminate, lacquered doors and varnished wood in good condition. What matters is that the surface is sound, because vinyl shows whatever is underneath. If paint is flaking, veneer is lifting or wood has swollen with damp, fix that first. On porous, unvarnished wood the adhesive grips less well.
Avoid areas that get direct heat: the panel right next to the oven, beside the hob or under the extractor hood where the heat reaches.
How to measure
- Count the pieces. Make a list of every door, drawer front and panel you're going to wrap.
- Measure each one, height by width, and add about 2 or 3 cm on each side if you're wrapping the edges too.
- Fit them on the roll. Draw a rectangle 152 cm wide and arrange the pieces inside it like a puzzle. Two 60 cm wide doors fit side by side, so the length of one door gives you two.
- Add a little margin in case you spoil a piece. And buy all the vinyl at once: the shade can vary slightly from one batch to another.
As a guide, the fronts of a small kitchen usually take between 3 and 5 m of roll. There are more measurements in how much vinyl do I need?
What you need
- The vinyl, in the length you've worked out.
- A felt-edged squeegee to lay it down without scratching it.
- A fine-blade cutter for clean trimming.
- A kitchen degreaser, isopropyl alcohol and microfibre cloths.
- A hairdryer for the edges, a screwdriver and a metal ruler.
Prepare the units
Kitchen grease is vinyl's biggest enemy. If you don't remove it completely, the adhesive won't grip and the edges will lift within a few weeks.
- Take off the handles and knobs. And, if you can, take the doors off: it's much easier to work on a table.
- Degrease thoroughly with a kitchen degreaser, including the edges and around the handles, where most grease builds up.
- Rinse and dry.
- Wipe over with isopropyl alcohol to remove any degreaser residue. Let it dry.
How to apply it
- Cut the piece with its margin.
- Peel back just a strip of the backing paper along one side, a few centimetres.
- Line up that edge straight with the door. With wood grains, make sure the grain runs the same way on every door.
- Peel the backing off bit by bit while you lay the vinyl down with the squeegee, from one side to the other, in overlapping strokes. That way the air escapes and no bubbles form. If it goes crooked, lift it and lay it again.
- If a small bubble is left, push it with your finger towards the nearest edge.
The edges
The edges are what separate a DIY job from one that looks factory-made. You have two options:
- Wrap them with the same piece: warm the vinyl with the hairdryer, fold it over the edge and take it 1 or 2 cm round the back. At the corners, cut the excess diagonally so material doesn't build up, and overlap only as much as you need.
- Trim flush: trim the vinyl right at the edge with the cutter and cover the edges with separate strips. It's quicker, but the edge is more exposed.
Either way, go over all the edges with heat and press down: that seals them. Then put the doors and handles back on, making the holes from behind with the cutter.
Which finish to choose
- Wood grain: walnut wood grain vinyl gives a warm, modern kitchen; beech wood grain vinyl, which is lighter, makes the kitchen look bigger.
- Matte white and black: matte white is bright and doesn't reflect; matte black is elegant and looks great with wooden worktops.
- Grey: the easiest colour to match. There are several shades in grey vinyl wrap.
You'll find all the recommended finishes on our kitchen vinyl wrap page. And if you have some left over, you can carry on with your fridge and appliances or other furniture around the house.
How to clean it
A damp cloth and mild soap are all you need. Don't use scourers, abrasive products or solvents, and don't steam-clean directly on the edges. If an edge lifts, clean it with alcohol, warm it with the hairdryer and press it down for a few seconds.
Frequently asked questions
Can I put vinyl on the worktop?
Yes, on a smooth worktop in good condition. Don't cut directly on it or put hot pans on it: always use a chopping board and a trivet. You'll find suitable finishes on our table and worktop vinyl page.
Can I remove it if I rent?
Yes. Warm the vinyl with a hairdryer and peel it off slowly at a low angle. If any adhesive is left, it comes off with isopropyl alcohol. The technique is the same as in how to remove a car wrap.
Will it cope with the humidity in a kitchen?
Yes, you can wipe it with a damp cloth without any problem. The key is to seal the edges well, because that is where water could get in, especially next to the sink.
Do I need to take the doors off?
It isn't essential, but it helps a lot: on a table you work more comfortably, you wrap the edges better and you don't make a mess of the rest of the kitchen.
